Journal
Notes and addresses from the people who guide the tours. Short, useful, and rewritten when Paris changes.
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June 2026, 3 minutes to read
The 674 steps
There is a staircase inside the south pillar, and most visitors walk straight past it: 674 steps to the second floor, and 72 names painted in gold on the way.
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May 2026, 3 minutes to read
The Latin Quarter at 9 a.m.
Before the coaches arrive, the oldest streets in Paris belong to the people who work there. One hour, at the right time of day.
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April 2026, 4 minutes to read
Where to actually eat, 10 minutes from the Louvre
A method for lunch near the Louvre: the chalkboard rule, and two streets worth the walk.